ACMG Mountain
Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 3, 2008
Last weekends hot weather finally started to create some
change and an avalanche cycle on many of the higher peaks. Most of the avalanche
activity has occurred as loose wet snow avalanches with the occasional deep
slab release to remind us that we are not yet dealing with summer firn snow
conditions. Warm seasonal temperatures are forecasted into the weekend with
valley bottom highs in the mid 20s. This continuing stretch of warm
weather is resulting in rapid changes. Some of the alpine routes are starting
to come into shape.
Above 2800 metres, there is still a lot snow but some ridge
routes are getting climbed. In Glacier
Park, Mt. McDonald
and Tupper have seen ascents and Uto, and Eagle appears to be reasonable.
Sir Donald is apparently getting attempted today. Expect snow for at
least part of the approaches and the route. There is likely still 50 cm
of snow at Hermit Meadows.
In the Rockies, snow and
ice routes at the Icefields are very much dependent on a good overnight freeze
which does not seem likely over the next few days given high freezing levels.
Snow is melting fast though and ice is becoming more and more visible. In
the Lake Louise area, the peaks are drying off
quickly but the high stuff like Victoria and Lefroy is till quite snowy. Today
there was still almost a metre at Abbott
Pass and the approach
from Oesa has enough snow above it to be of concern. As soon as you move
east of the Divide, the ridges are looking much drier.
Reports from the Bugaboos have been very limited. Ascents
of technical routes so far seem to have been few. You can expect most
routes there to have challenges with snowy sections and/or wet areas.
We are at the period of Solstice and snow conditions can
change from excellent to terrifying in a very short time. This should be
considered for any steep snow slopes. Large cornices are still present on
many ridges and when they fail have the potential to trigger large avalanches
below.
On the lower elevation rock routes such Mt. Colin,
Castle, Louis and other Front range objectives in the Rockies,
most of the winter snowpack is gone. These routes are generally in good
shape.
PS: Rockies photos from
yesterday on separate posting courtesy Percy Woods
Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide