Jeremy Mackenzie and I climbed Deception on Nanny Goat in threatening
weather and wind but no rain. The route now sports a lot of bolts. Belay
stations are often 35m or less apart. (Thanks to whoever did the work.) It
would still be very difficult to rappel off the route as it traverses
extensively and at least one rap would require a 70m rope or more.
Despite the good job of bolting the route there are still a few fairly
run-out sections of 5.7 climbing and you should be comfortable at the grade.
We did use some cams and a couple of wired nuts to supplement the bolts on a
few pitches, so this is not a sport route by any stretch of the imagination.
The route description in the guidebook is quite deceptive regarding where
the belays are as they are not always in the old locations. If you are
belaying off anything but dual bolts, keep looking.
At the top, a couple of extra pitches including a 5.8 finish can be had by
traversing up and right along the easy ramp to another two bolt belay. Two
and a half more short pitches gets you to the top. (We did a total of 8 1/2
pitches, each of 35m length or slightly less.)
On the descent a two bolt rappel (ring bolts) on the skiers left of the
little gulley gets you nicely to the ground after following the climber /
goat path descent down to that point.
Cyril Shokoples MG
Rescue Dynamics
5109 - 17A Avenue NW
Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA T6L 1K5
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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