| Camped beneath Forbes the night of the 17th but 14 hours of near continuous thunder, lightning and pelting rain and graupel overnight foiled our chances of getting up the peak. That said, the peak looks like it is in good condition although the lower glacier is bare ice. There was a skiff of snow above 8500 feet when the cold front finally passed at 6 am on the 18th.
We exited to Icefall Brook via the same route as Tom mentioned, on ledge systems on the west side of Mons Peak. I agree that although adventurous it is pretty durn rugged and not really recommended, but perhaps less rugged than the $1000 helicopter bill that is the only other west side escape option. Mark Klassen Mountain Guide
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