Just back from 15 days in the Vowells during the ACC General
Mountaineering Camp.
Of course things have changed significantly and the snow line is
changing daily.
The Vowell glacier access was via the left side to where a ice cave
marked the access. Any further than this was not done because of
unstable moraines and potential for rock fall.
Melting may cause this access to change and groups over the next
few weeks will deal with this.
A few parties climbed Pigeon and access to the base was about 3.5
hours of moving fast. Mostly we climbed peaks such as Brenta,
Crescent, Wallace, Robert the Bruce, Howard the Duck and a few
attempts Little Howser.
Here are a few notes for anybody using the base of the Vowells.
(which is a spectacular area)
The right side of the glacier is a steep snow slope which was easy up
and down with good snow but this will change to ice in a few more
weeks. From the top right of the glacier. (see pic) cairns mark a
route through the slabs on the right to a nice snow ramp under Robert
the Bruce which give nice clean access to Mt Wallace. We gained the
ridge on Mt. Wallace via a steep snow slope mid way along and a 20
metre rock pitch (5.5) which avoided some of the difficulties on the
access from Little Wallace.
Still quite a bit of snow on the ridge which forces you onto the rock
in places. This may be easier when dry. Gaining the ridge right from
the top of little Wallace added at least an extra hour or more for
most parties.
The Crescent glacier is opening up and slots becoming apparent. The
left side of the Vowell has a steep icy slope of half a rope length
that required belaying up and down. The lower left side of the Vowell
is dry ice and straightforward as is the glacier above this short
steeper section.
Little Howser was very loose and crossing the shrund will become an
issue in the next few weeks. The snow was near isothermal above the
shrund when we went to have a look and from what I could see, the
left had ridge looked more user friendly and avoided the stacked rubble.
The col between Howser and Little Howser is one access to East creek
so maybe some one finds this useful!
Unnamed (Juniper Peak) was popular, which was climbed via the east
face and north ridge. This is the peak above Bills pass.
The route on Brenta is well marked in the Piche/Atkinson Bugaboos
guide. (This has great beta on the Vowells!)
Only looked at the Arch Duke Trio.....very impressive especially from
Robert the Bruce
Generally good travel on the glacier and easy decents on soft snow in the pm.
Peter Amann
IFMGA Mountain guide
arch duke trio.jpg
Description: JPEG image
Vowells.jpg
Description: JPEG image
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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