[MCR] the Vowells

Subject: [MCR] the Vowells
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 06:58:44 -0600
Just back from 15 days in the Vowells during the ACC General Mountaineering Camp. Of course things have changed significantly and the snow line is changing daily. The Vowell glacier access was via the left side to where a ice cave marked the access. Any further than this was not done because of unstable moraines and potential for rock fall. Melting may cause this access to change and groups over the next few weeks will deal with this.

A few parties climbed Pigeon and access to the base was about 3.5 hours of moving fast. Mostly we climbed peaks such as Brenta, Crescent, Wallace, Robert the Bruce, Howard the Duck and a few attempts Little Howser. Here are a few notes for anybody using the base of the Vowells. (which is a spectacular area)

The right side of the glacier is a steep snow slope which was easy up and down with good snow but this will change to ice in a few more weeks. From the top right of the glacier. (see pic) cairns mark a route through the slabs on the right to a nice snow ramp under Robert the Bruce which give nice clean access to Mt Wallace. We gained the ridge on Mt. Wallace via a steep snow slope mid way along and a 20 metre rock pitch (5.5) which avoided some of the difficulties on the access from Little Wallace. Still quite a bit of snow on the ridge which forces you onto the rock in places. This may be easier when dry. Gaining the ridge right from the top of little Wallace added at least an extra hour or more for most parties.

The Crescent glacier is opening up and slots becoming apparent. The left side of the Vowell has a steep icy slope of half a rope length that required belaying up and down. The lower left side of the Vowell is dry ice and straightforward as is the glacier above this short steeper section.

Little Howser was very loose and crossing the shrund will become an issue in the next few weeks. The snow was near isothermal above the shrund when we went to have a look and from what I could see, the left had ridge looked more user friendly and avoided the stacked rubble. The col between Howser and Little Howser is one access to East creek so maybe some one finds this useful!

Unnamed (Juniper Peak) was popular, which was climbed via the east face and north ridge. This is the peak above Bills pass.

The route on Brenta is well marked in the Piche/Atkinson Bugaboos guide. (This has great beta on the Vowells!) Only looked at the Arch Duke Trio.....very impressive especially from Robert the Bruce

Generally good travel on the glacier and easy decents on soft snow in the pm.

Peter Amann
IFMGA Mountain guide



Attachment: arch duke trio.jpg
Description: JPEG image

Attachment: Vowells.jpg
Description: JPEG image

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