[MCR] East Ridge Mt Patterson

Subject: [MCR] East Ridge Mt Patterson
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 09:21:57 -0600
Climbed the East Ridge of Mt Patterson July 19, 20. The route is in good condition overall with a fair amount of snow caking the mountain above 9,500 feet. Snow can be avoided for most of the rock climbing and really isn't a hinderance. We were a party of 3, Saturday we forded the Mistaya River at 05:00 and climbed to the top of the the "three obvious steps" (Climber's Guide to the Rocky Mountains Of Canada - South) and a good bivoauc on snow at 19:30. Sunday climbing at 06:00, placed two screws in ice at the end of the snow/ice arete (only screws placed on route). The huge multiyear cornice that sat over the route in 2005 is gone and last winter's cornice is mostly fallen away; getting over it was straight forward. Summit at 13:30, descent via Delta Creek, back at the car at 20:00.

A party of two climbed the East Face, via the finishing rock rib, on Sunday over 18 hours.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
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