Travel conditions in the Howsons were excellent the last two days. Good
overnight freezes produced 10 cm crusts that held up until noon in flat
terrain while steep E and S facing flanks got soft earlier. The glaciers
are still well covered. Getting on and off the Burnie neve is still very
easy, but that might not last much more than a week. Travel on the Loft
is easy. The Loft Glacier is snow covered to its toe at 1600 m while on
the Burnie Glacier firm snow persists to the top of the icefall at 1700 m.
The North Ridge of Howson Peak is in good condition. No rock at all is
showing and the snow is quite hard. We rappelled 4 double rope pitches
over very hard neve on ice into the N col of Howson.
We also climbed a new route in the NE couloir of Howson Peak. 450 m,
alpine and water ice to 65 degrees. Small to medium cams and knife
blades are useful. A very early start is recommended.
The attached pictures show the top of the North Ridge and the NE flank
of Howson Peak. The couloir goes to the summit.
--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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