Climbed the North Glacier of Mt Aberdeen yesterday. A little bit of a
freeze: ice forming on puddles below the glacier. There was rockfall
off the climber's left edge of the ice tounge, we approached for
climber's right. Crossed the bergshrund on climber's left. A strange
drum skin of ice, separated from the true ice face by several
centimeters, in places; had to chop through it to get real screws.
We descended the gully to the south east. The valley bottom trail out
of Paradise Valley has been closed since the last time I was there,
seems the way to go now is to head up valley to the gain the Giant
Steps trail and then climb to the Lake Annette trail, would have
saved us several fordings of paradise creek and some bushwacking.
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
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