[MCR] Rockies: Mt Harrison

We climbed the SW face of Mt Harrison, the southernmost 11 thousander in the Rockies, on Thursday July 31.

Access is via logging roads up the White River and Bull River. The last 5 km up the Bull is rough with three washouts requiring careful driving, 4WD and a standard SUV high-ish clearance vehicle. Corbett's description in his guidebook is accurate. 5 hrs from Banff to the end of the Bull River road.

There was a touch of snow above 9500 ft on shaded aspects from storms the night of July 29. The SW face route is dry though, up til the last 1200 ft or so, where snow gullies can be linked all the way to the summit ridge. It is hard winter snow that required crampons.

The N Face looked like it was still very climbable although probably about 2 weeks past its prime. There is a lot of ice showing now. An early start would be required as it looks like there is a lot of potential for stonefall, especially with the bit of new snow on the ledges above the route. There are very nice bivy spots in the upper valley all the way from treeline to the end of the meadows in the moraines.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

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