[MCR] Bugaboos Aug 8

High season in the Bugaboos with the Kain Hut booked out for the last three nights and I counted 35 tents at Applebee yesterday - supposedly it was close to 60 tents last weekend!

 

Glaciers are still snow covered and the approaches for Pigeon West Ridge and Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge were manageable without crampons, if it had to be. Bugaboo - Snowpatch col is still in pretty good condition, however the bergschrund is opening up quickly. The track is set to cross the bergschrund on climbers right and the gap appears small but the edges are overhanging!

 

Bugaboos NE ridge had a surprising amount of snow left in the chimney pitches but it was well manageable for someone who masters the grade. Same for Pigeon West Ridge, where the last pitch is quite snowy and boots (vs. climbing shoes) come in handy. Last year I hade noticed that the second rappel station form the summit of Pigeon was in bad shape (I think one of the two bolts or bolt hangers was dangling on the chain....) but some good soul must have fixed it in the meantime! Also, the descent via Bugaboo Glacier currently travels well and only one crevasse close to the Pigeon Howser Col requires a bit of negotiating.

 

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide

 

 

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