Climbed Joy today with a friend. Short-roped the first 60 - 100m then did
about ten pitches of roughly 50m each. A number of pitons encountered on the
route, mostly single pitons at belay stations. Found that bringing LOTS of
small cams was a great idea plus the normal Rockies rack. Used more medium
sized wired nuts rather than the large or small but this route definitely
eats up smaller cams like they are going out of style.
If you are not comfortable with runouts bring tons of smaller cams as most
of the belay stations require you to build using gear and that often eats up
two or three cams per station and thus pieces can be used simply on stations
alone. I took size 1, 2, 3 TCUs and a set of size .3 to 3 Camalots plus a
full set of wires. Could have used one or two more smaller cams but was able
to live without them by belaying early on one pitch.
Tried to download the Kananaskis Obscure guide from TABVAR but had issues
getting logged on to the TABVAR site for the last month. Not much beta
necessary once you find the route. Follow the right corner! Bring lots of
small gear. Bring lots of water.
Bring bear spray. Lots of evidence of recent bear diggings just past where
you gain the meadows. Little wonder as you exit onto prime bear habitat!
Cyril Shokoples
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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