This week has seen a change from summer conditions into more fall like
conditions with a series of storms bringing light amounts of snow to most
of the Columbia and Rocky Mountain ranges. Snow levels have dropped to
around 2800m and most high alpine rock routes have a fair bit of fresh
snow and will take several days of sunny weather to get back into shape.
Continued unsettled weather is forecast meaning that lower elevation rock
routes, south facing routes, and the front ranges climbs are the most
likely to be in good shape for the weekend.
The cooler conditions have resulted in better climbing conditions on
alpine snow and ice routes as lowering freezing levels are reducing
rockfall potential and firming up the snowfall from last week.
With the strong winds and new storm snow, instabilities on lee aspects are
developing and are a hazard to watch out for over the coming couple of
days, especially at higher elevations or if we do get a period of warm
weather. As an example, a size 2 avalanche was reported yesterday on the
north side ("Ramp Route") on Mount Athabasca.
At higher elevations the crevasses are becoming lightly covered by the new
snow. A little extra diligence is required in some areas to pick your way
through areas with recent snow accumulations or as you near the edges of
crevasses.
Reports from the Bugaboos have folks finding a few things to climb in the
Crescent Towers but the higher rock routes will need some sunny weather to
come back into shape.
In Rogers Pass snow levels were down to the Uto-Sir Donald Col. There may
be some good options on south facing routes or glacier routes for the
weekend.
In the main ranges of the Rockies expect to find 5-20cm of recent snow
from the last several days with the snow line down to about 2800m and a
dusting of new snow below this on north aspects. Exposed high alpine areas
have had redistribution of snow to form slabs a metre or more thick on the
lee aspects.
The front ranges of the Rockies so far are remaining dry with good
climbing on Eisenhower, Louis, Yam etc. Expect some cooler temperatures
and a dusting of snow on true N aspects.
Still lots of great climbing to be had out there, enjoy the weekend!
Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
403.678.8336(cell) or 403.760.0887(home)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/conradjanzenphotos
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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