Myself and four
other mountain guides were at the Columbia Icefields for the past 3 days with a
large group of university students.
In addition to practicing on the North Glacier of Athabasca, we climbed A2
(via the Boundary Glacier) and Athabasca (via the AA Col). Travel conditions were excellent. Above 2600m there is 10-30 cm of newer
snow over a carrying crust, and a further 30 cm of snow to the summer ice. The latest snow is generally moist due
to this week’s warm temps, and it is bonding well to the crust, but we still avoided
the ‘Normal’ ramp route on Athabasca in light of the recent natural and older
climber triggered activity on the ramp.
Plus 6 degrees most mornings at the Icefields campground meant not much
of a freeze up high, but still good travel conditions. No new avalanche activity, however there
was a number of large serac falls from the south sides of Andromeda and
Snowdome.
We wore
crampons from the AA Glacier to the summit of Athabasca, with rain turning to
snow and poor visibility on Oct 3rd. Good steps in the snow gullies leading to the Athabasca side
of the AA Col, and no slab formation noted. We found good ice for anchors under about 40 cm of snow when
descending from the AA Col.
Jordy Shepherd
Mountain
Guide