I wrote about a week ago regarding the ice conditions on on the South Coast. For the most part nothing has changed. I have attached that last message below. I did however have a view from the other side of the car, so here are a few other things I saw on the drive down:
The climb above Gott Creek is still in and fat. It is called Boxing day.
Duffie's Delight and the Tube are not in.
Serindipity is not there at all.
Loose Lady looked like it was there and touching down, but very stiff, no lower spray cone yet.
Suncatcher on the Bridge river looks in and fun.
A big heads up though. There is a very unstable snowpack out there. As you go north on the Duffy Lake Road two things happen, there is less snow and there is a more developed facet layer. It is very likely that this unstable layer still exists in the deeper snowpack up high or the 25cm snowpack found around the townsite of Lillooet. Expect avalanches to trigger easily with any load, and don't climb in any obvious avalanche paths (often identifiable on the Duffy Lake road with a yellow number marker). If you are not leashed into a well placed tool a tiny little slope could slide and knock you off your feet, then burry your belayer.
Conny Amelunxen
MG IFMGA/ACMG
Written on Dec 26.
Entropy looked in (was climbed a week ago)
Psycho Pillar was thin, unprotectable, but looked like a great mixed climb on TR
The climb on the cliffs across from Gott creek was in and looked fat
Rambles were fat, Shreddie non existant
Carlsberg
looked climbable and some steps on it made it easier looking than
normal in the sense of climbing....protecting it looked epic if possible
Syncronicity looks really fat at the top but thin where you get on it at the top of the gully
there is a great looking Grade 3 gully on the south facing wall near at the fish hatchery lillooet
The Bridge River Canyon is the driest I have seen it in several years.
Capricon looked fat
couldn't see silk degrees
Gift and Theft aren't even starting to form
Shriek of the Sheep curtain doesn't touch down but the lower pitches are in
Nightn Gail was just a bunch of ribbons.
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continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
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Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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