[MCR] Bear Spirit Anchors

I was at Bear Spirit climbing yesterday (Sunday, January 5), being a weekend it was quite busy.  There was a couple of anchors set up for top- roping which displayed an un-safe practice.

1. The first anchor, had quite a few people taking turns climbing the steep pillar.  For the anchor, there was a 7mm prussic cord tied around a relatively small tree not double but single strand.  The two ends of that prussic cord were connected with a overhand knot.  From that prussic cord there was another cord attaching a faded old rope around a relatively small dead tree.
   

The prussic cord (if used as an anchor for top roping) needs to be connected with a double fisherman Knot (overhand knot can flip over), and also the prussic cord or cordellet needs to be doubled in order to be full strength ( I normally use webbing).  I wouldn’t have used that dead tree with that old faded rope as an anchor.  There was lots of ice;  two 22 cm screws and a double length sewn webbing that equalized the anchor would have been a much safer option or of course a BIG LIVE TREE.


    2.  The second anchor was around a big live tree which was good, but the focal point to where the climbing rope was going thru had two none -lockers     with the gates apposed.

A better focal point would be a locker with a non-locker (opposing gates), especially if you will be top-roping for an extended period of time.

There are my two- bits for a safer top roping scenario.

Play safe,

Marco Delesalle
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

        






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