[MCR] Bourgeau Right Hand

Climbed the first 50 meters in 2 pitches yesterday, Jan 27.

Nobody up there in awhile. Large avalanche debris made for pretty easy walking on the approach. There is a single old 1/4 inch self drive bolt 5 meters right of the first real pitch. Good place for the belayer to stand as it is out of the icefall, but an inadequate anchor for a lead fall there (I'll take a couple of knifeblades next time). We backed up to a three screw anchor in the ice, some of which is detached.

Lots of detached ice in both pitches. There was a body width vein of good stuff for most of the first pitch, pulling the top was more serious because of more detachment. 2nd pitch had more ice but steeper. We didn't get to the 3rd pitch as it was just too cold yesterday. The 3rd pitch has melted out a lot in the hot spell, but looked climbable and easier than the first 2.

Overall an engaging couple of pitches, largely due to the cold. The climb is not long for this world once it gets hot again, but could be a good day for advanced climbers with the forcasted warmer temps.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM / IFMGA Mountain Guide

Canmore, Alberta, Canada

barryb3@xxxxxxxxx

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