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March 3 we climbed Twisted in Field. The direct start looks thin, melted out, and detached enough to give a miss. Right hand ramp is great. The 2nd, crux, pitch has some detachment in the first third of the pitch, then some spooky detachment in the last third of the pitch (the crux). Might be possible to move around right to more bonded ice there. The last pitch is huge.
March 4 we climbed Murchison Falls. Good track in, lots of ice lenses and crusts overlying the ice. Huge roofs of ice topping the climb, kind of similar to what usually sits on top of Wicked Wanda but on a larger scale. I've done the route over a dozen times since the early 80s and can't recall seeing roofs like this before. We got through by traversing in from climber's right to finish in the centre and on the left.
March 5 walked all the way up to Spray River Falls but substantial sloughs coming off of the rock walls spooked us and we scampered away to Tokkum Creek.
March 6, ski touring on the Observation Peak side of Bow Summit. Broke through to the facettes and ground occasionally while track setting up through the forest (that is getting old for early March!). Sun crust in the glades, lots of wind effect above tree line. A variable ski down hill, much better ski quality below tree line.
Happy trails, Barry Blanchard UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide Yamnuska Mountain Adventures |