Climbed Louise Falls yesterday, April 22nd. It is huge and was in spring conditions. Melt/freeze 'corn' ice overlies the surface and I had to clear between 4 and 6 inches away to place screws and that was the most work on the climb -clearing away the corn ice to get screws. On the low angled ice I was cautious with my crampons shearing through the corn and I kicked steps, on the steeper stuff I was concerned with my tools rippiing out and got them deepish. Face shots with every placement (the corn ice tends to spray more than cold ice). I suspect that the route is locked up now (6am, April 23rd) as it is -7 C in Canmore as I type this, and that the corn ice will be dinnerplating until it thaws.
The walk off is icy, we did 1 30m rappel off of tree on the walk off to avoid most of the frontpointing down.
Happy trails, Barry Blanchard UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide Yamnuska Mountain Adventures |
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
|