Climbed the right "Practice Gully" on Andromeda today. Excellent
conditions on a great moderate classic route, it still felt a bit like
winter up there today. Overhead cornice hazard on right gully is
minimal. There is a huge cornice over the left gully and a couple of
medium-sized hanging ones over the middle gully that looked
well-rooted for now in the cold temps. The middle gully looks to be in
excellent condition as well with continuous snow and ice to an easy
exit between the cornices at the top. We descended the AA Col. Some
new snow (up to 30 cm overlying brittle ice) lower down on the gully
and on the descent made for good steps.
Thin coverage on the glacier -- 0 to 200cm. Right gully bergschrund is
fairly well bridged, ~ 250 cm where we crossed in the middle. Top
rubbly ledges are currently covered with about 20-30 cm of facetted
snow which held things together. Good freeze overnight (2C at 4am in
the parking lot with clear skies) and cool temps throughout the day
meant the snow even on the descent on steep south facing slopes above
AA col was still firm in the early afternoon. We used a few pitons and
a few small to medium cams for the anchors for the mixed pitches at
the top (4th class).
Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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