ACMG MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS
SUMMARY FOR THE ROCKIES AND COLUMBIAS
JUNE 4, 2009.
Fair weather continues to
promote receding of the winter snow line. Wet slab and loose snow
avalanches as well as cornice failures continue to occur. Upper elevation
north aspects still retain a winter snowpack with concerns for midpack and deep
instabilities. Overnight radiation freezes are critical. As we
approach the solstice, it is important to remember how early and late the sun
will affect snow slopes. A number of alpine rock routes are coming into
shape but approaches and descents will require negotiating some snow
slopes. A significant change in weather is forecasted for the Rockies over the weekend with precipitation and snow
possible down to valley bottoms. It sounds hard to believe sitting on the
deck in this summer weather.
In the Rockies
south of the Columbia Icefields and east of the main ranges conditions have
improved. Routes such as Castle
Tower and routes on the
lower tier of Castle are getting climbed. The upper tier of Castle is
likely also in reasonable shape but it will be a snow wallow getting to the
descent gully. The Gmoser and Kain routes on Mt. Louis
are probably getting close. Again, the descent gully will likely still
have snow and ice in it. Lower elevation Front Range
routes in Jasper such as Bedson Ridge are in good shape but at last report the
higher objectives were still snowy. Along the Continental Divide it will
still take a while. All of the high objectives from Edith Cavell to Assiniboine are very much in winter conditions although
steep snow slopes are starting to show ice. Lower peaks such as Grassi Ridge
are climbable but will require negotiating some snow. At the Columbia
Icefields, reports indicate varying conditions but with early starts and
finishes, the north face routes and the AA route on Athabasca
appear to be in good shape.
In the interior ranges, the
deeper winter snowpack still prevails. In the Bugaboos, the snowline is
still well below the Kain Hut (see Gord Irwin’s
photos taken yesterday). There are no recent reports from Roger’s
pass but it is likely that routes in the Sir Donald and Hermit area are still a
ways off. The timing for the routes on Mt. McDonald
might be right if there is enough snow to deal with the alder bash and yet be
manageable from a stability perspective. I also noticed some serious
moats forming there when driving by a week ago.
We are turning the corner on
a late spring. Stay tuned on reports from ACMG guides working in the various
ranges.
Marc
Ledwidge
ACMG/UIAGM Mountain Guide