[MCR] N Face Athabasca, July 2, 2009

Had a great day with one guest on the North Face of Athabasca today.   -1'C at the car in the morning and cool and clear all day.  A little bit of post holing in recent storm snow above 2900m, good travel across the bergschrund, and good ice all the way to the top.  A few cm's of snow in places but no avalanche hazard on the route as of today and the snow stayed cold until we topped out at 1000 hrs.  We descended the AA col route which was also in good shape.

The mixed step remains quite sporting compared to past years and had some recent snow and verglass to keep things interesting.  I used a medium angle, medium nuts and 0.4-0.75 Camalots to help protect it.  Only found one fixed pin.

Other parties were on the Silverhorn, North Glacier Ramp, and AA Col Route during the past two days.  A few lingering concerns about the recent storm snow in heavily loaded spots still exist but overall things were in good shape.

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.conradjanzenguiding.com

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