[MCR] Bugaboos - Pigeon Spire

Subject: [MCR] Bugaboos - Pigeon Spire
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 23:16:59 -0600
Todd G. and I returned from the Bugaboos on Sunday evening after taking our
clients to Pigeon Spire on Saturday. Overnight refreeze on Saturday was
marginal and consequently the climb to the Bugaboo -Snowpatch Col was pretty
soggy but still easy to travel with ice and rocks well covered by snow.

We went to the first summit on the West Ridge without encountering any snow
en route. A guided party did (probably) this season's first ascent of the
true summit the day before and reported that crampons and ice axe were
essential with the strong overnight refreeze that they had at the time.

We descended via the Bugaboo Glacier, which required crossing two crevasse
bridges high up on the descent. Those bridges will likely not last over the
summer and a good overnight refreeze is recommended when choosing this
route. The glacier is snow covered all the way to the level where the route
traverse to the left to gain the moraine and traveled well in spite of the
soft snow.

Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA) 
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717 



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