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Spent the last few days in East Creek and we were
able to climb Marmolata and the Kain Route on Saturday (July
11).
Conditions on Marmalota were somewhat slow and
sloppy due to patches of winter snow that caused wet lichen, dripping corners
and the occasional verglas sections.
The Kain route has quite a few snow patches on the
lower third of the route but they were all avoidable. We did need to get
into the snow for about 30 meters just before the first bolted rappel
station. The rest of the route is dry.
When we arrived on July 9th the total snowpack
depth (HS) was 225cms and when we left on the 12th it was 180cms.
This rapid settlement however was not reflected in the alpine except on due
south to west aspects. Overall travel conditions were decent in the
morning but broke down quickly as midday approached, with boot
top to mid shin penetration. Crevasses were starting to
open on the East Creek side of the Pigeon - Howser Col but the Vowell and
Bugaboo glaciers still had good coverage, possibly more now with the
precip over the past couple of days.
Pigeon looked very snowy.
Cheers
Gord Irwin
Mountain Guide
Mike Stuart
Alpine/Assistant Ski
Guide
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