[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mts. July 23, 2009

We've been blessed with a string of long, hot, sunny days in the Rockies and Interior since the last MCR Summary. Overnight temperatures have typically not dipped below the freezing level high into the alpine, but until the last couple of nights good overnight recoveries in the snowpack and even frozen surface crusts have been reported due to radiation cooling from the clear starry nights. Over the past few days, however, limited reports have been of very warm nights with no recovery high into the alpine and a steadily worsening snowpack.

As a result of our fine weather the climbing activity in the alpine has kicked into high gear. Alpine rock routes even on high north aspects (e.g. Greenwood/Jones on Temple's north face and Mt. Sir Donald's NE Ridge) are reported to be drying out and mostly good. Earlier in the week, glacier and snow and ice routes have also been climbed such as Athabasca's North Face and Silverhorn routes, Robson's Kain Route, Lefroy's West Face and Victoria's South Ridge.

Climbing conditions have been reported as generally very good. Deep snowpack areas (e.g. 1m+) have provided good, supportive travel with minimal foot penetration. Earlier in the week, shallow snowpack areas, such as near firn lines or on steeper faces, provided good travel early in the morning on surface crusts; but it's easy to be lulled into a false sense of security by this. Daytime warming melts the thin crusts quickly and turns snow that at 4am provided good steps into slop by 8am. The hot weather of the past couple of days has made this concern that much more serious.

Glaciers are still overall well covered but this is changing quickly as the snowline is receding and bridges are thinning out and softening in the heat. Rockfall is becoming an increasing concern as the snow that holds our rubbly ranges together is warming up and disappearing.

The bigger peaks are starting to get climbed, but many routes are in marginal condition requiring good overnight refreezes, strong experienced teams who get up early and move quickly, and a willingness to bivi on descents to wait (hopefully) for the overnight recovery.

Over the next couple of days a cooling trend with thunder storm activity is predicted. The 7 day weather forecast shows continued cooler temperatures with more good weather and winds from the northeast. This could mean a steady improvement in alpine climbing conditions if it brings overnight freezes to settle the snowpack into good summer condition.

Over the past week we've had more than 15 MCR reports covering probably twice that number of mountains in many of the Interior ranges. These reports are a great source of up to the minute beta on conditions and a valuable resource to everyone (including me writing this!); thanks to the guides who put time and effort into writing them, keep up the good work!

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG

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