[MCR] Bugaboos-Pigeon East Face July 25th, 2009.

Climbed the Cooper-Kor on the East Face of Pigeon today. Presently travel is good on the Bugaboo Glacier. Pigeon East Face is still weeping so we had some very entertaining summer waterfall climbing.

 

Pigeon West Ridge is almost pure rock now. A little snow and a couple of icy steps on the North side getting to the last pitch is all that needs to be negotiated.

 

Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is beginning to look less and less like a moderate ski run and is starting to show its true self. Lots of perched rocks on the Bugaboo side and the Schrunds are starting to yawn.

 

Crevasses generally are starting to open up all over the Bugaboos and the bare ice is getting harder to avoid.   Road is in pretty good shape.

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

laristan@xxxxxxxxx

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