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ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued
July 29th, 2009.
Big changes in the alpine in the past week.
Sunshine, warm temperatures and some warm rainstorms have removed much of the
snow from all elevations. Lots of bare ice everywhere and that melting trend is
likely to continue for the foreseeable future given the weather forecasts. This
is both good and bad news, depending upon your hit list.
Pure alpine rock routes are generally in great
shape. Watch for the lingering, melting snowpatchs that are spitting rocks
and slush without much prompting from the sun or the
rain.
Many snow and ice routes are in poor shape,
especially in gully lines, sun exposed and moderate elevation places. Rockfall
and tedious climbing is what you would get from places like Mt. Lefroy right
now. Don't even think of routes like the A Strain or Grand Central Couloir.
My big concern is potentially HUGE rockfalls around ice faces that are
melting and exposing rocks that haven't seen the light of day since last year or
since the beginning of the last ice age.
Glacier travel is really variable right now. Good
freezes and travel some nights, multi day slush at other times. Crevasse bridges
are getting thinner and obviously losing strength in the heat. It is a REALLY
bad time for unroped glacier travel or even sloppy glacier travel
techniques.
Rivers and streams are running high right now. Even
on the glaciers at times!
It is high season in the alpine and there is a lot
of great climbing to be had right now. The big classic ridges and buttresses
from Victoria and Sir Donald to the Howsers and the Tonquin are crying
out to be climbed. Just make sure your route plan takes into acount the
glaciated approaches and descents and that you are very concious of what is over
your head.
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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