[MCR] Edith Cavell and Cavell road

Climbed east ridge of Cavell 2 days ago in perfect conditions. Used axes
for 5 minutes low down on the left morraine trail. this could probably be
avoided but it was still dark and hard to see the trail from below.
 The rest of the route was dry. there is water (presently) just
above the col where the scrambly trail starts...should last a while yet.
One other spot on the ridge we turned on the left crossed a patch of snow
then regained the ridge. Most of the pitched belays were within an arm
length of a snow patch to grab a handful of snow!

The backside is bone dry. There is some water lower down on the decent
where the trail comes close to a stream. It was very busy on the route on
Saturday with 10-15 parties.

On another note just in case you did not know, the Cavell
road will be tentatively closed as of September 7th this fall. They are
re-paving the road and doing prep work. 

If you have plans for a September climb on Cavell or are planning a trip
to the Tonquin, you will have to go in via Portal Creek. Essentially the
route on Cavell is good till September 6...unless of course these perfect
conditions change before then! 

Of course this could change due to scheduling and such, so contact Parks
Canada in Jasper if you have any questions or to check for last minute
changes in early September.

Peter Amann

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide
pamann@xxxxxxxxxxxx

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