[MCR] Bugaboos August 1-4

Just spent a few days in the bugs before the weather turned.

Conditions are changing rapidly with the biggest issue being the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col.  It continues to melt out and is currently much worse than I have ever seen it at this time of year.  People are still using it to approach the upper Vowell Glacier but there have been several close calls due to rockfall lately.  Almost the entire top half is bare ice covered with loose dirt and boulders and real (steel) crampons certainly come in handy.  Most parties have been descending using the raps down the middle of the col then traversing back skiers left above the open crevasses at the bottom.  Some parties are still trying to scramble down the top on the skiers left (Bugaboo) side to avoid the steepest ice but due to the amount of looses rubble on that side, it poses a huge rockfall hazard to anyone below.  It is also good to keep in mind that ascending the col is likely a little safer earlier in the day than later when the ice is melting in the direct heat of the sun.  This may seem obvious but there were a surprising number of parties casually taking their time heading up the col mid day when natural rockfall was at its highest and some parties had already started descending from their routes.

An alternative to reduce your overall exposure is to use the Pigeon-Snowpatch raps at the end of the day.  These work best if your are staying at the hut.  It is necessary to cross fairly steep bare ice (~25 degrees) to get to the start of the raps right now which we crossed without crampons later in the day when the ice was soft but it could have been quite tricky had the ice been harder.  

It is also possible to use the upper Bugaboo Glacier as the approach to the West Ridge of Pigeon and East Creek to avoid the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col altogether for those routes.  There are many large crevasses to navigate on the upper half but generally still good snow coverage.  Parties have managed to get around the last big crevasse by either going into the moat against the South Face of Pigeon Spire or going hard left to gain the snow ridge near the Pigeon Feathers. 

Despite the difficulty in getting to some of the routes, climbing conditions in the Bugs are great right now with most routes being dry and travel on the glaciers still pretty straightforward for the most part.

Have fun,

-- 
Marc Piché
Mountain Guide

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