|
ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies
and Columbia Mountains issued August 13th, 2009.
The mountains are in generally bare and dry summer
condition right now. Obviously rain and some high elevation snow is making a
mockery of that statement at this moment:) However, bare ice, no old snow and
lots of exposed choss around the glacial margins is the reality.
The recent posted photos of the Bugaboo/Snowpatch
col and the subsequent rockfall there are dramatic signs of the times. I believe
I have heard more rockfall horror stories this summer than any summer I can
remember, and the vast majority of these were from the retreating glacial
margins. There is still lots of fine, relatively
safe climbing, mountaineering and glacier travel to be had but you need to keep your eyes wide open as well as your
plans. Routes ranging from most of the classic
ridges to some of the Bugaboos big walls are excellent objectives right now. The
trick is getting onto those features through reasonable terrain. Rain, daytime
heat and other parties are the obvious factors that can exacerbate the rockfall
hazard.
Many ice routes have deteriorated or
disappeared for the time being. I feel that routes under ice faces like the
North Face of Alberta should be assumed to have an unacceptable risk of rockfall
for the time being.
Glacier travel is getting trickier in most places.
The thin snowpack that remains is great with a good freeze but spooky when it is
moist or wet. It is definitely time for disciplined glacier travel with a snug
rope and some knowledge of how to use it. Lots of bare ice around so make sure
your crampons are snug and sharp and that you are very aware of the consequences
of a roped or unroped fall on moderate ice. Can you really hold your partner if
they fall on moderate angle ice?
Front ranges are well clear of old snow and the
rock climbing and scrambling is drying out quickly. Even in the dry
ranges reports have spoken of increased rockfall activity.
Wear a helmet but keep in mind that will only save
your hairdo if you get hit by one of the pianos or refrigerators that are
rolling downslope from time to time.
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain
Guide
|