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Climbed the Hourglass on the North Face of Mt Athabasca yesterday, August 17th. An ok freeze overnight with a crust all the way into the bowl below the face. Dry snow up to the bergshrund and onto the face, the snow went to snowball snow with the warmth of the day after about noon. Two fist sized rocks melted out of the rockband while we were on the face. The route has changed dramatically since I first climbed it in 1978. Back then there was one rock protruding from the iceface below the Hourglass, now there are ribs of rock exposed and it is a bit tricky figuring out how to get into the Hourglass without being exposed to the Silverhorn serac on climbers right. We traversed in from our right rising line. Ice screw anchors and protection the whole way. Last weeks storm snow is bonded well to the face in places and makes for easier climbing when you can get into it. We descended via the North Glacier ramp, which has a track in it at present, late in the day. Some pinwheeling there during the warmth of the day.
Happy trails, Barry Blanchard UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide Yamnuska Mountain Adventures 1 403 609 4615 cell 1 403 609 1321
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