Visited Ogre Canyon again in late July where the road had gone from great
conditions to terrible condition due to the wet weather. As previously
reported the route "It's Great to be Young and Insane" has now been upgraded
with all of the older bolt hangers now replaced with stainless hardware and
rappel bolts. You cannot rappel directly down the route but need to rappel
two short raps down the Layback then traverse back onto "Insane" to follow
the route the rest of the way back down. Also replaced most of the older
hangers on the Layback route as well.
Later in July I also climbed the classic obvious treed corner "Stuffed
Peppers" on the right side of the canyon. I had done the route numerous
times in the past but hadn't been there in years so had forgotten a few
details. The route has great climbing but is wickedly run-out. In four
pitches you only get a half dozen pieces of protection total! That includes
the three pitons I left behind this time on pitch 3. Normal gear was totally
useless on the compact limestone. That leaves the crux moves on three of the
four pitches unprotected. The route description mentions a piton at the crux
start of pitch four. This no longer exists, so no point looking for it.
Overall the 5.7 grade feels a lot more like 5.8 when you are doing thin
moves with your last pro being two rappel pitons 30 meters below.
I have added this to my list of routes on which to add rappel and protection
bolts. In the meantime you should be really solid at 5.7 / 5.8 if you plan
to climb Stuffed Peppers. The route is NOT currently set up to rappel so you
have to walk into where the Canyon becomes shallow to a point where it can
be crossed. Follow goat paths and do not commit to going down unless it
looks really easy to cross. I will post to the MCR when I get back to Ogre
to upgrade this route.
The road is currently in poor shape yet again. 4X4 truck with good clearance
required.
Later
Cyril Shokoples MG
Rescue Dynamics
http://www.rescuedynamics.com
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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