Emperor ridge, south
face, Mt. Robson. Aug 30-Sept1, 2009
Cycled into Kinney lake, left the bikes there and continued up to a bivy on Emperor
Ridge at 9000 feet. Little water running, but a small snow patch on the
north side to melt for water. Good climbing on dry rock to the step
left around the steep step. Wet snowy rock encountered while traversing
into gully. Gully offered good ice, back to the ridge crest. Climbing
is steep, exposed and sustained up until 12000 feet where the final ridge
starts. Bare rock is followed until the last 400m where the gargoyles
start. Double ropes work well to try and protect this area.
North face showing a lot of bare ice. Great bivi at the summit with
little wind and a low of -3 offering a little freeze over night above 11000
feet. Descended the South face via the SE ridge encountering a lot of
bare ice. Left 2 snow pickets at the Ralph Forster hut we brought off
the route. Trail down easy to follow back to Kinney Lake, and a coast
back to the car park. Total 3 days.
James Madden
ARG, ASG
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