[MCR] Emperor Ridge, Mt Robson Aug 30-Sept 1

 

 

Emperor ridge, south face, Mt. Robson. Aug 30-Sept1, 2009

Cycled into Kinney lake, left the bikes there and continued up to a bivy on Emperor Ridge at 9000 feet.  Little water running, but a small snow patch on the north side to melt for water.  Good climbing on dry rock to the step left around the steep step.  Wet snowy rock encountered while traversing into gully.  Gully offered good ice, back to the ridge crest.  Climbing is steep, exposed and sustained up until 12000 feet where the final ridge starts.  Bare rock is followed until the last 400m where the gargoyles start.  Double ropes work well to try and protect this area.   North face showing a lot of bare ice.  Great bivi at the summit with little wind and a low of -3 offering a little freeze over night above 11000 feet.  Descended the South face via the SE ridge encountering a lot of bare ice.  Left 2 snow pickets at the Ralph Forster hut we brought off the route.  Trail down easy to follow back to Kinney Lake, and a coast back to the car park.  Total 3 days.

James Madden
ARG, ASG

 

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