[MCR] Mt. Fay. Perren route and Central Ice Bulge Sept 16th. 2009

Climbed the Perren Route on the 15th. Bone dry. Glacier approach to Colgan hut and the North Face is fairly dry also as last weeks snow is almost all gone.

 

Mediocre freeze overnight. Suprising, given a very clear night in September. Glacier travel ok.  Lots of water running, even at 6am and it was pouring down the glacier runoff gullies much harder in the early pm today than yesterday.

 

Central ice bulge in fair to good shape today(16th). Schrund crossing is airy but manageable at present. Snow on perhaps 60% of the left line. Fun exit on the left through a short rockband to the ridge east of the route and a short steep section to the summit ridge. We rapped the route on Abalakov's with two 60m ropes. 7 rappels to the flat bench.

 

The massive leaning serac on the Chouinard Route is still standing and the majority of the upper serac has a huge gap at the summit ridge. I am guessing it could hit the lake if it all went at once.

 

Heard through the grapevine that the Tourist route on Temple is snow free and all the big peaks look surprisingly dry at present.

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

laristan@xxxxxxxxx

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