Subject: | [MCR] Athabasca Area Conditions, Jasper Park - Sept 30 - Oct 3 |
---|---|
Date: | Sun, 4 Oct 2009 22:12:36 -0700 |
A group of Thompson Rivers
University students and instructors finished a few days of mountaineering
in Jasper on October 3rd, camping at the Icefields campground and climbing in
the Athabasca area. Generally conditions were quite dry, with lots of
exposed ice. Recent minor snowfall had accumulated on lee slopes and was
enough to fill hollows on the glaciers and hide crevasses with thin snow
cover. A larger snowfall on the night of October 2nd has now altered
conditions considerably.
We climbed the Silverhorn
route on Mt. Athabasca on October 1, and except for a few deep (up to 1 meter)
loaded pockets at the base of the route, it was bare brittle ice the whole way
up, for about 10 rope lengths. Cold temps (-10 to -12 C) and windy!
We decided against the ramp route descent due to the obvious snow
loading from the moderate southwest winds. We descended the skier's
right side of the AA Col, down snow covered scree, and did a half rope-length
belayed downclimb over the well covered bergschrund (covered with rocks,
snow, ice). I have attached a photo of both sides of the AA Col from
October 1. It snowed 10-15 cm at the Icefields campground on the night of
October 2nd, so the attached photo shows condition prior to the last
snowfall.
Groups also climbed
Boundary Peak, and conducted practice sessions on the toe of the Athabasca
Glacier as well as on the climber's right side of the North Glacier on Mt.
Athabasca. I have attached a couple photos to show the excellent practice
crevasse / millwell that can be accessed from the toe of the Athabasca
Glacier, in about the center of the glacier, just past the second glaciology
pole.
There is enough snow now
for avalanches to be a concern, especially on loaded lee slopes. A
ride in an avalanche could result in a fall into one of the numerous crevasses
or over a cliff.
Glacier travel will be
difficult, with numerous hidden crevasses under the new snow. Roped travel
and probing ahead is highly recommended.
Thompson Rivers University
Adventure Studies:
Iain Stewart-Patterson -
Mountain Guide
Jordy Shepherd - Mountain
Guide
Abby Watkins - ACMG Alpine
Guide / Assistant Ski Guide
Jeff Honig - Mountain
Guide
Craig McGee - Mountain
Guide
AA Col Oct 1, 2009.jpg
Athabasca Glacier 2 Sept 30.jpg
Athabasca Glacier Sept 30.jpg _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. |
Previous by Date: | [MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary issued Oct. 1st, 2009, Public Mountain Conditions Report |
---|---|
Next by Date: | [MCR] K Country snow, Public Mountain Conditions Report |