Climbed Murchison Falls today. A warm day, -4 at Rampart Creek hostel at 5am.
The climb is in good shape, with many options for lines of ascent. A few wet
spots and drips throughout, but the top pitch was dry, no water spray coming
from the climbers left. The direct line on the top pitch went at WI 5+, but a
more sneaky line could be climbed closer to the guidebook grade. There is a
cornice threatening the lower climber's right side of the falls.
There is quite a bit of snow about, and the winds have formed soft and hard
slabs in the valley and on the snow slope leading up to the base of the main
falls, definitely enough snow, and enough wind effect to make slab avalanches a
concern.
There was light rain at Saskatchewan River Crossing this evening, which turned
to snow at around 2000m on the drive home.
Jason Billing
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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