[MCR] Selkirks / Slocan Ice

Subject: [MCR] Selkirks / Slocan Ice
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 00:27:21 -0800
We climbed the first 2 pitches of "Home By Noon" today.  This is the right hand of the two broad twin ice slabs above the highway just north of Slocan City (see photo).
 
The ice was mostly quite plastic and thick enough for medium length screws with the exception of the last 10m to the second anchor which was a bit too thin for even stubbies. 
 
The first bolted anchor is tucked under a roof and gives excellent protection from icefall above.  The second anchor bolts had to be chopped out from under an inch of ice. 
 
The third pitch which traverses wildly right through an easy bolt protected but exposed rock ledge seemed to be lacking thick enough ice on the exit pillar. 
 
We were just barely able to rap to within 1m of the ground from the second anchor with some stretchy 60m ropes, but probably better to swing right and reach the first anchor to descend in 2 raps.
 
Assorted smears are freezing up in various locations along the Slocan Valley and things will get even more exciting as the cold weather continues.  Vanishing Falls and Enterprise both look climbable from the road.
 
Enjoy,
Shaun King
ACMG Alpine Guide

Attachment: Home By Noon.JPG
Description: JPEG image

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.