Climbed Bourgeau left on Sunday 27- A perfect day out. Nice, warm and pleasant with plasticy ice. As most know, Bourgeau has been avalanche controlled (bombed) previously- At the upper bowl I found a shallower well settled snowpacknot over depth hoar- hard to NR test results- valley to ridge widespread surface hoar.
We began with a new 2 pitch ( 3 with 1st Bourgeau pitch) short sport alpine mixed route "Toishi" WI 4 M5 5.8 see pics. Climb first pitch of Bourgeau left and traverse 60 meters to the right to a 1 bolt & #3cam anchor- all other stations 2 bolts. All cruxes bolted as well as placed several protection bolts on route- eventually it will be a fully bolted alpine trainer, but for now bring screws for the first pitch, a small rack up to # 3, no nuts or pins needed and 12 draws/shoulder L slings. The route was melting out as we were doing it- best left until things freeze up again. The route topo will be place on iceXperts under Routes tab if folks want to see the topo- good fun.
On the way down we retro bolted the anchors on Bourgeau left that needed it. New station at the top. Skip the middle station on the last pitch- its has too much objective hazard (hanging daggers)- from the top station, 60M ropes easily reach the cave station right hand at the base of the upper pitch- new retro bolted ring bolt anchor there now- When I cleaned the old pin from the cave station it broke in half with two hammer swipes... The station at the very end of the first pitch, before the bowl- the right hand bolt has been smushed by a rock and is quite twisted- so I drilled a hole in the next chain link down but did not have enough washers to stopper down the chain link- see picture- If somone could bring up a 2 3/4" or 3" inch bolt/nut with 5 washers (4 to go under the chain link to stopper it- 1 for the top- bang it in, tighten it up and she'll be good to go.
Happy ice.
Eric Dumerac- IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
www.iceXperts.ca
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Bourgeau station.tif
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Toishi 1.tif
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Toishi 2.tif
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Toishi 3.tif
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Bourgeau new route 057.jpg
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Toishi 4.tif
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