[MCR] Bourgeau left

Climbed Bourgeau left today. On route we found near perfect conditions. Despite some sun affect on the first and last pitch gear was good.  The anchor at the top of the second pitch is basically done and needs total replacement.  A single bolt hole is visible and appears to be full depth, making for what i beleive to be a quick 3/8” replacement does not look like 10mm(?).

 

On another note, the trail was good but once in the open became hard to follow due to recent wind/snow cover. We followed the harder surfaces to the base of the route in order to avoid punching to our knees.  For the most part we found good support over shallow sections of wind/temperature affected snow.

 

Depending on the snow that comes in over weekend (possibly as much as 20cm without considering wind and colder overall temperatures) the approach might take on a completely different feel. I don’t get the feeling the snow will stick too well to the steeper sections.

Cheers
 
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
alpineguide@xxxxxxxxxxx
403 688 6003  
"Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value."
Albert Einstein

 

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.