[MCR] Pilsner Pillar, Yoho National park, BC (Feb 14)

Pilsner Pillar, Yoho National park, BC (Feb 14)

As reported previously, the climb is in good shape with very plastic ice (courtesy of the warm temps). The first pitch is skinny at the bottom but good hooks mean you don't have to unnecessarily bash at the slender pillar. The second short pitch has filled in and now offers consolidated ice for picks and screws. Both pitches have sections heavy dripping so leave the soft-shell clothing behind. The bolted anchor at the top (on the right) is in a poor state of disrepair (one rusty self-drive and one archaic ring bolt). It could definitely use replacing with two new 3/8" bolts and Fixe rings. 

Currently only a trace of new snow in Field, but more load and/or higher temps would drastically increase the avalanche hazard threatening this and other Field ice routes.

Sean Isaac

ACMG Alpine Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.