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Been up Louise falls a few times in the past few
days. Few different options up but the safest line is around
WI4+. The first pitch we found it hard to get cover on the right side
under the rock arch as the ice was almost too slushy to get a good
anchor. The left side of the first pitch up to the tree is good to go
just a bit wet. On the second pitch we stayed well away from the right side as
it's got the biggest chunk of hang-fire overhead. The left side has a bit as
well but much less than the right. Looks like it had grown a fair bit in between
the days I was there and don't know if I'd want to be around it if it grows much
more. Seems like the safest line is right up the middle into the cave on the
second pitch. You're exposed to both left and right sides but only while your
low down on the pitch. Pillar pitch is really hooked out and above that the
ice is a bit unconsolidated but still easy climbing.
7 people below us at one point, with complete gridlock
at the cave. All of these parties showed up at about 11am... on a long weekend.
Might be wise to start early if you like being
first.
Enjoy!
Mike.
Mike Trehearne
ACMG - Assistant Alpine
Guide
m_trehearne@xxxxxxxxxxx
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