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Guided Coal Miner's Daughter today, Feb 19. Refreshingly cold in Field at 7:00 this morning, -16 C via the car thermometer. Good to park in the "Monarch" campground parking lot, which has been plowed, and is on the left at the baracade to the Yoho Valley Road (signed "Monarch"). There is a snow shoe track that leads from there to the slopes below the climb. Our up track, possibly the first of the year, is set in sparse trees on the climber's left.
The route is a good adventure right now and probably a half grade, or grade, harder than the guidebook 4. No evidence of any other ascents this year. We belayed on the left and climbed about 20 meters of steep ice with a back supporting chimney for meters 15-20 (it felt like a poor man's version of the first 20 meters of Pilsner Pillar at present). Then a strenuous pull around to the right frontside and after a few meters you can stand on a ledge. The next 10 meters are like an exaggerated Cascade crux, ie: a delicate window pane with a fair amount of water falling plumb behind, but longer and steeper than Cascade. We belayed anchored to the old 12 x 12 inch wooden posts supporting an old mine portal. The narrow gauge track and ties provided a good standing platform. Overall a fun and adventurous route. The sun was on the route from about 10:30- 11:30 am, then it set behind Mt Stephen, but was back on the climb after we drove east from coffee in Field -about 1:00 pm.
We saw a party starting Silk Tassel at about 11:30, when we were driving to Field for coffee. I feel that I should reiterate that the start zones for avalanches on Silk Tassel are at the summit of Mt Field, some 4000 feet above the route. Those start zones had been getting sun since 9:00 am? Best to get Silk Tassel done at dawn on these sunny days. Further the belayer stood out in front of the route where I believe several people have been hurt, and two killed, over the years. Having been there two days ago I know that there is an ice cave that you can belay in (we did, early in the morning on Wednesday) and be much less exposed. I mention all of this in the spirit of safer climbing.
The KIcking Horse River has opened up from the bridge at the base of the Spiral Tunnel Hill to below Super Bock. The river is also surface flooding the ice, take a good look before walking out onto it.
Happy trails, Barry Blanchard UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide 1 403 609 4615 cell 1 403 609 1321  
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