I guided the mighty Coire Dubh Integral today- fantastic ice and mixed conditions througout. After the initial ice pitches where the topo indicates thin ice 70 deg, or up the left facing groove, we went the thin ice which right now is an really cool smear. Fixed pin and spector on the way make it well protected. I made a new topo which is attached here (not sure if the MCR rigid regulators allow this? but anyhow if it does not work I will put it on igbguides website www.igbguides.com as well as a video of the route in the next while). I find the topo in the guide book pretty much useless so this will help folks out I think as there are several options. The route is really, really good right now and I highly reccomend it. I used cams from .4, .75, 1 & 2 camalots with a handfull of stoppers. Bring some extra double length slings and about 10 shoulder sling draws- 7 screws total. I did it with a 50M rope and it was 10 pitches or so with a bunch of short roping in between. 10 hours car to car
Eric Dumerac- IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
3W's dot igbguides dot com 1-877-309-7673
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Coire Dubh Integral upper pitches topo.doc
Description: MS-Word document
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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