Guided Extra light today,
The ice was generally dry. We found debris at the base of the route likely from the last mini cycle + some new form the last few days.
The debris appeared to have originated from steep snow that covered the smooth rock on either side of the side walls just above the first pitch. Several more areas on the way up the gully had the same recent debris.
On the way to the last pitch we traveled more debris...on the climbers left there are still preserved wind slab sitting on about 1m of faceted sugary snow. The last pitch was in good shape not too much sign of travel.
We had an early start and enjoyed hard snow most of the way up but by mid day things were getting quite sloppy.
Overall i am operating like we are a full month in advance....early starts and finishes avoiding sunny aspects etc. General spring logic.
Cheers
Patrick
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
403 688 6003
"Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value."
Albert Einstein
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