[MCR] Nemesis, Stanley Headwall, KNP

The route is good shape currently with a very well packed trail all the way to the base.  Skis/snowshoes not needed.

 

Well traveled lines make the first tier quite straightforward.  The climbing off of the midway ledge is fun and gymnastic, with good rests and solid protection.  This upper pitch finishes with sustained grade 5 climbing and offers good quality ice.

 

Just the top of the route sees the sun late morning, otherwise you are in the shade all day.

 

There are large daggers hanging off of the upper tier that threaten the current "gear up" spot.  May be safer to get dressed farther over to the left.

 

The trail in the valley was still supportive in the early afternoon when we walked out.

 

Have fun and be safe!

 

 

Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide

_______________________________________________
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