The climb is in good shape right now. There
are a few lines that have been travelled heavily, offering good placements and
solid screws throughout. There are currently 2 caves on the route
(beginning and middle sections) that offer full protection for the
belayer.
The sun hits the route around 1015 and stays on it
for about an hour. Cryophobia (beside Hydro to the right) is quickly
melting away and poses a substantial hazard to people hiking up to the base of
Hydro as well as the "gear up" spot at the edge of the forest. The upper 2
pitches of Cryo will not last much longer and were constantly dropping chunks of
ice yesterday.
We walked from the North Ghost (unpleasant at
times) in a little over 3 hours. In spots the snow is still thigh
deep. Telus cell phone reception all the way to the base of the
route.
Have fun and be safe!
Mike Stuart ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski
Guide
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