We managed to be the first of 4 parties today on Louise Falls.
There were about 10 cm of fresh snow at the lake level and temps of -12 when we
left the parking lot around 9 AM. The climb is in good condition with the crux
pitch being a bit drippy. The easiest line for the crux curtain from the center
of the cave is pretty sporty (as usual) and all but hacked out. Fortunately, bridging
between two columns keeps the grade around the guide book rating of easy WI 5.
Of note is the fact that once the sun was out, the climbers right side daggers
immediately to the right of the climbing line made noises while we were belaying
in the cave. There is also a settlement crack visible but the daggers seem to
keep hanging on for the time being as they are connected on the side to a
larger column that has pretty good support. In summary, have a good look before
you start and choose your route wisely if at all you want to expose yourself to
the Louise Falls overhead hazard.
Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / VDBS / IFMGA)
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717