| Spent March 18 - 23 based out of Rampart Creek Hostel, on the Icefields Parkway.
Spring has arrived early in the Rockies, and many of the popular ice climbs are not long for this world. Mild temperatures and strong solar affect have taken their toll. We found the following conditions.
Balfour Wall, Tangle Falls, Melt Out - Sun affected ice with significant meltout at the tops. We overbuilt anchors (using v-threads, screws and trees). With more sun and warm temps these climbs will soon be done for the season.
Two O'Clock Falls - Seeing sun until 1pm. Still winter ice for the most part, but sections of sun affected ice were found. Again, overbuilt anchors and checking them throughout the day.
Shades of Beauty - This North facing climbing had virgin, winter ice, hard for the grade at the moment.
Haffner Creek - Most of the mixed and ice climbs here are done for the season. Sun and above seasonal temps have melted away the snow on the ledge above the climbs, leaving exposed, loose rock and mud. Any free hanging pillars are cracked, sun baked and ready to fall. We climbed on the left hand flow, which was sun affected but still well formed and supported, we avoided exposure to rockfall from the ledge above. It was -3 at 9am and by the time the sun was poking through the clouds at 12pm, we were walking out of the canyon. There is evidence of a significant rockfall event on the right hand flow in the past week, with a mud streak down the ice and several toaster sized blocks at the base. See attached photo.
Temperatures: Low -12 high +4, winds were generally light from the SW. Partially cloudy skies and 3cm of snow over the week.
It is time to think about putting away the ice tools, unless you are on a true north aspect, and preferably at a higher elevation. If you are on a climb like this where a winter snowpack still exists, consult the local avalanche bulletin and pay close attention to the current conditions as far as new snow, wind, and temperatures. The touchy conditions of this winter have been surprising even veteran guides.
Enjoy a safe spring!
Jason Billing Assistant Alpine Guide Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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