Climbed the East face on Tuesday May 11, under perfect conditions.
A strong freeze (-15 at 4 am) led to fast travel and great step
kicking on the face. Both of the bergschrunds were closed and easy to
pass. There was one spot on the face about 200 feet below the summit
where it was almost bare ice but it only lasted for about 20 feet.
The rest of the face had boot top depth steps.
The crust was breaking down by 11am so early starts (and finishes)
were a must.
The upper icefield had anywhere from 250 to 300+cms of snow so most
crevasses were covered quite well and travel was quick up the
Athabasca glacier.
The sun was the biggest hazard for us as the clear skies gave no
respite from the heat.
There were a few other parties camped around the Twins and people had
been skiing up the Saskatchewan glacier as well.
Have a great and safe weekend!
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide/Assistant Ski Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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