[MCR] Mt. Columbia

Subject: [MCR] Mt. Columbia
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 07:26:24 -0600
Climbed the East face on Tuesday May 11, under perfect conditions.

A strong freeze (-15 at 4 am) led to fast travel and great step kicking on the face. Both of the bergschrunds were closed and easy to pass. There was one spot on the face about 200 feet below the summit where it was almost bare ice but it only lasted for about 20 feet. The rest of the face had boot top depth steps.

The crust was breaking down by 11am so early starts (and finishes) were a must.

The upper icefield had anywhere from 250 to 300+cms of snow so most crevasses were covered quite well and travel was quick up the Athabasca glacier.

The sun was the biggest hazard for us as the clear skies gave no respite from the heat.

There were a few other parties camped around the Twins and people had been skiing up the Saskatchewan glacier as well.

Have a great and safe weekend!

Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide/Assistant Ski Guide


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