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Climbed on the West end yesterday and most of the
face routes were dry by mid afternoon. All cracks and chimney features
looked wet and some had snow/ice in them.
The snowline was about 150 meters below the cliff
in the morning and not that much had melted on our descent. Snow
depth was up to our boot tops on the way over to the West end and knee deep in
places on the backside after topping out. A pole was nice to
have.
As we walked under the Balrog area we noticed a
block about the size of a beer fridge embedded in the trail like a huge
cobblestone. It was spooky to think that it didn't hit anything and break
up as it fell from the mountain. Spring is a good time to be extra sure of
your holds before you commit to them, especially when there is so much moisture
around. Expect increased rockfall with the melt.
The remaining snow will melt quickly on the front
side once the sun comes out...hope that's soon!!
Enjoy your weekend!
Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide
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