[MCR] Canadian Rockies: Skyladder, Mt. Andromeda, Columbia Icefields (July 21, 2010)

Skyladder, Mt. Andromeda, Columbia Icefields, Canadian Rockies (July 21, 2010)

Last time I climbed Skyladder was 16 years ago and as many are aware, it is now a different style of route. Most of the permanent ice down low has disappeared, so it now needs to be done early season when there is sufficient snowpack to fill in the various rock gullies that have replaced the missing ice.

The longest day of the year meant an early start to take advantage of the good, yet short-lasting freeze. We left the parking lot at 2am (+5 Celsius) in order to maximize our time on frozen snow. Despite the short almost-summer-solstice night, the glacier recovered with a thick melt-freeze crust that offered supportive walking. 

Conditions have changed significantly since friends skied Skyladder two weeks ago. Where they found a winter snowpack with layers of concern, we found a very hard bed surface exposed by recent wet avalanches that have scoured the lower portion of the route. Debris has filled most of the bergshrund so it was easily stepped across on the right side. After a two rope-lengths of cramponing up squeaky neve, the snow surface eventually relented and then allowed for good, full steps all the way to the summit ridge.

By the time (9am), we finished the rappel on the east ridge descent, the snow on that side (from the bottom of the rap to the AA col) had fully lost its freeze. Probably would have been better to be there an hour earlier and glad we were not an hour later.

In general, the weather has been better to the north compared to the front ranges and main ranges around the Bow Valley. Snow coverage on the glaciers and ice faces seems above average but early starts and solid freezes are necessary to avoid tedious travel, avalanches and rock fall.

Sean Isaac

ACMG Alpine Guide

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