The following is intended to bring some clarification and adjustment to my MCR regarding Castle Mountain and EEOR’s TAIL that I posted on the 2nd.
Recently at least two parties have been confused by a line of bolts and new belay bolts found at the top of the second pitch of EEORs TAIL. On the 1st , do to rock fall, a climber suffered broken bones and was treated at the Canmore hospital. The climbers unfortunately off route climbed some 20m right of EEOR’s TAIL. The off route line attempted has a clear and visible white fixed rope. This line is very loose and has been attempted, possibly climbed, as a direct start to Anasinusdephobia (page 384 of bow valley rock)!
For EEOR’s TAIL simply follow the guidebook information and get to the base of the route.
Either follow the guide book description avoiding the Overhanging groove/loose chimney with fixed rope!
Alternatively, identify the black single belay bolt! This bolt is right off the ground and below a small roof. Hard to miss if your in the correct general area! Climb the line of THREE bolts found on the slab to the left and up to the base of a pillar, some gear and a FOURTH bolt lead you to the original “first bolted” belay stance, it was retro-bolted along with all other stations on the route last year. Continue following guide book descriptions.
I hope this adds some clarification.
Cheers
Patrick Delaney
ACMG ALPINE GUIDE
www.rockymountainguiding.com
www.yamnuska.com
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